Few days before every trip, I try to establish not only the key sights and places to see, but also seek out all the available information on traditional foods and drinks. I spend quite some time searching the internet, asking my friends, selecting non-meat dishes, and trying not to drool while flipping through virtual reality pictures of local delicacies. Preparation for the trip to Georgia was no different in this respect—I traveled there armed with an abundance of tips and information I’d gathered about the place, from hidden eateries to must-try recipes that promised a feast for the senses.

I had heard endless praises for Georgia’s unique culture, its incredibly hospitable people, and, of course, the food. I was really excited to visit, despite the heavy winds and storm over Istanbul during my stopover, which made the flight a bit turbulent. In a word, I loved Georgia! The people are truly hospitable and go out of their way to assist you, often inviting strangers to join family meals or sharing directions with genuine warmth. Tbilisi, the vibrant capital, is an intriguing city blending restored Eastern Orthodox churches with sleek modern buildings. The 4th-century Narikala Fortress looms majestically over the city from a hilltop, originally established as the “Invidious Fort” and later expanded by the Umayyads in the 7th century and King David the Builder. It features two walled sections on a steep incline, positioned between the famous sulfur baths and Tbilisi’s lush botanical gardens, offering panoramic views that capture the city’s layered history.

Georgia’s strategic position on ancient trade routes has infused its cuisine with influences from Europe, the Middle East, and beyond, resulting in a diverse palette of herbs, spices, and regional variations. Dishes can shift dramatically from the mountainous north to the coastal Black Sea areas, emphasizing fresh, bold flavors that reflect the country’s rugged terrain and fertile soils.

If you ever visit, you must experience the funicular ride from the Funicular Restaurant up to Mtatsminda, an amusement park perched high above the city. The restaurant’s hillside location provides breathtaking vistas, especially at dusk when Tbilisi’s lights twinkle below. Here, you can savor local staples like khachapuri (a boat-shaped bread filled with molten cheese), lobiani (bean-filled bread), steaming khinkali dumplings, and various kebabs—though as a non-meat eater, I focused on the vegetarian twists. Don’t miss the local wines, which range from crisp dry varieties to semi-sweet and thick, syrupy sweets that might not suit every palate but pair perfectly with hearty meals.

A small digression for wine lovers: Georgia is one of the world’s oldest wine regions, with grape cultivation in the fertile Caucasus Mountain valleys dating back over 8,000 years. The traditional qvevri method uses egg-shaped clay jars for fermentation, storage, and aging—often buried underground in cellars to maintain steady temperatures. This ancient technique produces distinctive, amber-hued wines with earthy notes, earning UNESCO recognition for its cultural significance.

Returning to the food, I had the pleasure of tasting unusual dishes like mountain trout in almond sauce or deep-fried fish in a rich walnut sauce (chakhokhbili-inspired vegetarian adaptations). At first, I suspected my dinner companions were pranking the sole non-meat eater at the table, but Georgia’s pristine rivers yield these smaller, flavorful trout that shine in nut-based sauces—a hallmark of the cuisine’s love for tkemali (sour plum) and ground walnuts. The fish’s delicate taste, enhanced by the creamy almond sauce, was a revelation.

However, my absolute favorite was nadughi cheese, a fresh dairy delight served with caramelized walnuts and berries. It arrives like a small gift, wrapped with a delicate bow on the plate; the cheese’s soft, smooth texture contrasts beautifully with the crunchy, sweet nuts, creating a symphony of flavors that left me in culinary heaven. I indulged in it three days in a row, pairing it with saperavi wine for an unforgettable treat.

One quirky drink to try is the fluorescent green lemonade called Midori, made from tarragon—its vibrant color looks intimidating, but fans of fizzy, herbal beverages with a quirky anise-like twist will appreciate its refreshing zing, especially on hot days.

Despite my short visit to Georgia, I managed to immerse myself in the country’s renowned hospitality and cuisine. Returning home, I needed a juice detox for a few days to reset my body and stomach to everyday routines—but every indulgent bite was worth it. I can’t wait to return and explore more.

Georgia’s cuisine is a testament to its crossroads history, blending Persian, Turkish, Russian, and European influences while rooted in ancient Caucasian traditions. Staples like khachapuri vary regionally, the Imeretian version is round and cheese-laden, while the Adjarian boat-shaped one overflows with egg and butter. Walnuts, a superfood in Georgian cooking, feature in sauces like satsivi, providing creaminess without dairy, and pair with everything from eggplant (badrijani nigvzit) to mushrooms. Herbs such as cilantro, dill, and blue fenugreek add aromatic depth, often in vegetable stews like ajapsandali, making it ideal for vegetarians. The emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients reflects Georgia’s diverse microclimates, from Black Sea figs to highland mushrooms.

Wine isn’t just a beverage here; it’s cultural heritage, with over 500 indigenous grape varieties. Qvevri wines, fermented on skins for months, yield orange wines with tannins and complexity, contrasting lighter European styles. Beyond food, supra feasts, elaborate banquets led by a tamada (toastmaster), foster community, toasting to peace, family, and ancestors with chacha (grape spirit) or churchkhela (walnut strings dipped in thickened grape juice). For non-meat explorers, churchkhela’s candy-like texture and nutty sweetness is a portable delight.

Regional diversity shines in the food: Kakheti’s wine country offers hearty bean lobios and pkhali (walnut-pureed greens), while Svaneti’s mountains feature spicy kubdari pies (vegetarian fillings available). Tbilisi’s markets burst with sulguni cheese and tkemali sauces, inviting experimentation. This culinary tapestry, paired with Georgia’s warm supras, makes every meal a story of resilience and flavor.